2017 ASHS Annual Conference

In his book “Native Planters,” Craighill Handy writes that “in the matter of shrewd observation of varieties and careful, conscious selection…the Hawaiians were true experimental horticulturalists.” Two centuries of colonial action and plantation agriculture has overshadowed the accomplishments of Hawaiian horticulturalists, shifting an incredible crop diversity locally adapted to each of Hawai‘i’s extremely diverse climates to a system of monoculture. In a newly created position at the University of Hawai‘i focused on Indigenous Crops and Cropping Systems, I aim to revive and enhance indigenous horticulture and simultaneously uplift and empower indigenous peoples, cultures, and knowledge. My highly interdisciplinary research lab applies methods from ethnography, agronomy, biogeochemistry, and archaeology, to learn from the past while striving to adapt traditional knowledge into the modern context. I use an experiential approach that engages students and community through applied and practical implementation of our research. To highlight the extent of my research, education, and extension I describe my work regarding two crops – kō (sugarcane, Saccharum officinarum) and ‘ulu (breadfruit, Artocarpus altilis).

More than any other Hawaiian crop, the history and knowledge of kō was erased due to the significant role of sugar plantations in Hawai‘i’s post-contact history. To properly identify and catalog heirloom varieties extensive ethnographic and archival research was conducted, pulling on sources in both English and Hawaiian language. In parallel, I have amassed the largest collection of heirloom Hawaiian canes in the world, which has been used to conduct highly detailed morphological documentation and genetic analysis using a recently developed 100,000 SNP array. A full feature book has been accepted for publication, but I have also developed an open access website to make the information publically available. The sugarcane features were catalogued and distilled to create an interactive botanical key for the identification of each variety.

The ethnographic research provided a strong foundation from which other projects have blossomed. Specific knowledge regarding traditional mulching practices in Kona, Hawai‘i led me to identify nitrogen fixation in sugarcane mulch as a significant source of nitrogen in traditional cropping systems. Sources from ‘ōlelo nō‘eau (proverb or aphorism) and mo‘olelo (ancient stories) led us to recognize the cropping system that used rows of sugarcane as a mist-trap in Kohala, Hawai‘i. In answering these questions, I actively restore sections of the traditional cropping systems throughout the islands, through my own efforts and partnerships with other organizations. This allowed me to most accurately simulate the conditions of indigenous agriculture for experimentation and to experience the successes and tribulations first-hand. More importantly these sites became places of teaching and engagement. Students and community members come to experience our traditional crops and ways of growing them, and simultaneously are engaged in high quality research and cultural practices. This is a tool for bi-directional sharing and learning that allow participants, in particular those from Hawaiian and Pacific Islander backgrounds, to more actively engage in the science because of the cultural context; their knowledge and experiences are empowered, allowing them to confidently engage and opens the door for them to contextualize and interact with the science, rather than be intimidated or ostracized by it.

The knowledge of kō that I have helped to bring forward have inspired individuals to reengage with their use. I work closely with producer partners – from commercial rum distillers to backyard growers – to find niche markets and products that allow these heirloom varieties to contribute to both economics and food self-security. It is exciting to say that both in terms of acreage and in terms of number of people, I am confident there is more native cane growing today than at any time in the last 150 years. As the use of the cane grows, so does the potential for telling our traditional stories to a broader population. Furthermore, it creates greater opportunities for research. Working with a network of growers across the state I am now documenting the relative production of varieties in different climates, and documenting somatic mutations to discover (or in some cases rediscover) new or lost varieties of sugarcane.

My work with breadfruit similarly starts with a foundation of cultural knowledge, exploring the traditional methods and practices associated with the crop. As one of the few staple crops in the world that is a long-lived tree species, I believe that breadfruit has the potential to revolutionize agriculture throughout the tropics and sub-tropics worldwide (some of the most food insecure places). Because of the broad potential of breadfruit I have taken an approach that leverages Hawai‘i’s unique asset as one of the greatest living laboratories on the planet (in terms of organized variation in climate and soils). I have established a statewide variety trial at 15 sites representing 450 trees systematically testing varieties expression to the environment, which is driving the modeling of current and future habitat. This is being coupled with detailed genetic fingerprinting and monitoring of soil microbiology. I have launched a citizen science campaign on breadfruit phenology (my ethnographic research indicates notorious sensitivity) that uses Hawai‘i as a model systems and engages international partners to examine the global applicability of the results. Participants “adopt” trees for at least a year and input results into our online platform. This method encourages traditional practices of observation of local phenomenon, and has been exceptionally appealing to schools and programs that engage Native Hawaiian youth.

Working directly with farmers and processors we are pioneering a new industry with an ancient crop. I am defining basic agronomic standards, such as determining ideal foliar nutrient profiles, fertilizer regimes, and documenting deficiencies. However, the most significant challenges are in regards to products and marketing. To this end we have partnered with the Hawai‘i ‘Ulu Producers Cooperative and the Hawai‘i DOA to establish an experimental processing facility. Food Science students, from local to international, have been engaged in product development and testing to gain hands on experience while refining and perfecting detailed protocols for new breadfruit products. This work is coupled with significant outreach and education to highlight the versatility and appeal of breadfruit products to consumers.